Dress shirts come in a variety of weaves and styles, one of most used weaves for dress shirts is a twill weave. Cotton is a very variable material that can be made into so many different fabrics. These are known as weaves and each use a different pattern. One of the most well known is twill or twill weave. But what is twill, what kind of twill weave types are there and why does it work for dress shirts?

Specifics of a Twill weave

Regardless of the type of thread used, twill weave has the same pattern to it. It has diagonal parallel ribs made by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads. The weft then passes under two or more warp threads to create the offset pattern. This diagonal structure means that twill fabrics have a great drape. Common twill fabrics include denim, tweed, gabardine, drill, covert, chino and serge.

Twill weave materials often have a back and a front, unlike some materials that are virtually the same on both sides. The front is called the technical face and the back, the technical back. Not only does the face side look best but it is also the most durable. Stains and marks are less noticeable on twill fabric because of the uneven nature of the fabric. This is why it is a popular material for work clothes, such as denim

The reduced number of interlacing’s in twill also makes for a movable material. Unlike heavily interlaced fabrics, twill is soft and pliable as well as draping well. In addition, they are also less prone to wrinkles.

3 different types of Twill dress shirts

So what does all this mean for a dress shirt? A twill dress shirt using cotton threads will be more stain resistant than other fabrics. It will also show up less dirt and debris after wear. It will retain that lack of ironing status or will need less work to get it into condition. Yet it is sturdy and had good longevity meaning it is ideal for daily wear.

There are also various types of twill used for dress shirts. Despite all these practical attributes, they still make for stylish and dressy shirts. Due to the elaborate nature of the weave, they tend to be shiny and luxurious looking too.

Cavalry twill

The thickest type of twill is imperial or cavalry twill. These shirts will have a bold and very noticeable texture to them. A cavalry twill is mostly used for trousers.

cavalry twill example

Royal twill

Royal twills look less diagonal from a distance but when up close, the pattern is very visable. They are typically the shirts with a very high thread count, in the 120s region. This means they are the best quality shirts. 

royal twill example

Fine twills

Fine twills have a tight weave with the diagonal pattern only visible on close inspection. Finally, denim is the type of twill with a virtually invisible weave to it.

fine twill example

A twill shirt has a great pattern, is hard wearing and looks stylish. These shirts will have a good life span, making them cost effective. Some will be ideal for formal occasions and others more casual times. They can even come in different colours and patterns so are suitable for all tastes.

So what’s stopping you from getting one of your own today?